It cannot be stressed enough here that the reeds, being the heart and soul of a reed organ, must be handled with great care. You may also find missing knob-faces here. For this work, a driver with the correct shape of tip, carefully dressed, should be used. Oval-head screws are occasionally found, especially in casework. In most cases, the valves are "retained" by this spring's point dropping into a divot on the valve. ... An unrestored organ keyboard is often stained, cracked, has loose or missing ivories or sharps, and assorted problems from age, elements, and/or neglect. Failing to "size" the end of the stick will allow the dots to fall off easily, spoiling your work. Moderate skill with tools. With a sharp tool, each of these is bent up to point more-or-less straight up. Others may have a different opinion on this topic, but I prefer to leave the valve facings alone, *if* they are in good shape. This is the shallow box on which everything you have exposed sits. But, it has the sound of the days of Little House on the Prairie. Don't need it so selling it here. The traditional lubricant is tallow, nowadays difficult to find. ), Raising the keys is a bit trickier, and there are several ways to do it. I have a big old knitting-needle that I thread them onto, through their loops. When the torque applied to the screw-driver exceeds the ability of the screw slot to contain it, the blade slips out, doing major damage as it goes, and often doing damage to surrounding wood as well. The Registered Agent on file for this company is Reed Organ Society, Inc. and is located at Charles Robinson, Treasurer Po Box 47, Independence, MO 64051-0047. With both *ends* done, and well set up, you can begin the trimming operation. (Prop it up on chunks of wood if there are too many things protruding below). On the other hand, if the material is folded over on to the face, this can be done now, working the joint down tight, and mitering the corners. DON'T just put them in a tray and hope for the best: if that tray gets tipped, you have a major problem! Weight this mute briefly while moving on to the others, then leave all to set up and dry overnight. Reed Organ, powered by Spencer Orgoblo Jr, 3 full reed sets, full pedal board, probably used in a small church, golden oak, solid wood, probably early 20th century. Alcohol on a rag will remove the old shellac, fine sandpaper will prepare the surface, and new orange shellac (3-lb cut) will bring the surface back to like-new condition. NUMBERING: The keys on many reed organ keyboards have numbers stamped into them, usually near the tail. Drop the keys onto their frame in order, and secure with the catch rail (just a few screws for now). Finally, view the reed against a strong light to be sure there are no specks lurking anywhere in the small space between tongue and frame. We are proud to list acronym of ROS in the largest database of abbreviations and acronyms. He retains full and exclusive rights to both pictures and text. But if the springs are outside, you'll need to move your props "around the corner", being careful NOT to punch any hole in the new material (except on the glue joint itself). Use eye protection at a minimum for this operation. The closest modern equivalent I have found to the paper/cloth hinge material is "bookbinder's tape", available at artist supply houses. New reed bed felt is installed. Almost any heavy card-board (*not* corrugated!) Then apply ample glue to both wood parts, and pull the cloth back into position in such a way that it contacts the glue where it will actually lie, avoiding contact elsewhere. Mark these so that you get them back in (later) in exactly the same position as they were originally. Built in 1868 and enlarged in 1886, it is one of the city's few surviving Second Empire factory buildings. First, place the piece of felt for notes 1-13 on a flat surface, and hold it in place with masking tape at the ends. Harmoniums are pressure instruments, and altogether a "different breed of cat". This is not always easy, especially if the organ is fitted with the usual bass and treble couplers. This *can* get tricky, and there's a lot to explain. The reed organ enjoyed a period of great popularity in North America for about a century, beginning around 1835, with thousands of instruments per year being manufactured. You will see the ends of the bearings bent over and crimped into the wood. essential. Modern screws are formed in dies under great pressure from blank billets, and are generally crude when compared to old ones. GRUNGE: (Not to be confused with crud, q.v.) While many claim that "size isn't important", size IS important when using hot glue. To learn more about reed organs and related instruments, and about the Reed Organ Society, the Reed Organ Society website contains a wealth of information along with links to other reed organ sites. Thirteen Different Types of Pump Organs. Another way is to take electronic pictures, if you have a digital camera; these can be printed out and used later as guidance. Note: Some actions - notably Mason & Hamlin - use mutes which close a boxed-in area in front of the cells; vacuum is admitted to this area when the stop is off. The air hose is *extremely* useful (indispensable, in my view), but I suppose you could get along without it: the drying step will just take a bit longer. The company's filing status is listed as Active and its File Number is 802074. Next, turn the action over again. I call it "bedding felt" for want of a better term. If you can successfully remove these without destroying them, label them for re-use: otherwise, make new ones to match the old. Here you’ll see that they generally fall into 13 different categories: Lap Organ Using a sanding block, remove a little material from the top end of the sticker. This helps prevent getting glue in spots where you don't want it. ], Patience. MARKINGS: Dates, signatures, job numbers, tuners' information and other items of interest that have been placed on various keys, usually in pencil. Color is really unimportant; proper thickness is more important, and if the felt you use is too thick, the cells will be lifted up when you re-insert the reeds (a disaster!). 4. It's better to proceed directly as follows: To drop the front of a key, remove it and withdraw its sticker. With the valves done, you can contemplate the job of cleaning the reeds, about which more in Section 9. The hinges in the reservoir and exhausters you may find to be leather, or heavy canvas. Then trim the excess, using a *sharp* blade against a straight-edge, and taking off excess glue with a rag and hot water. As with the rest of the instrument's various bits and pieces, the first step is to assure that the keys are numbered in order. There just isn't any practical way to "patch" this stuff; it *has* to hold wind; and you aren't going to want to take this contraption apart again any time soon! DO NOT forget to put in the inside valves before covering the exhausters! It was listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1980. Soap has sometimes been recommended, but is the worst thing to use, as it will inevitably contain traces of lye which will attract water and promote rust. They do not work well (at all!) 2. The three categories are Flat-head, Round-head, and Variants. KEYSLIP: The portion of the casework which covers the action below the keyboard. Toggle navigation. The *critical* step is trimming the edge which closes on the reed butts: there is usually a slight overhang of leather here. The next step is pretty obvious: you'll wrap first one end, then the other, gluing both surfaces first. Replace these with something as close as you can find. Next, take some *important* measurements! And a lot of dirt, probably. Remove the swell action next: usually just a few screws. present some of the variations likely to be found, I can't cover the dozens of possibilities "out there". There is no serious corrosion, but some discoloration and an evident buildup of black material along the edges and tips of the tongues, in addition to loose dirt or moth droppings. Heavy leather, woven canvas, or whatever - try to match it reasonably well; glue it using hot glue, and be sure to keep the parts in their original relationship to one another. Collect the reeds, in order, on small trays, strips of wood, or whatever is handy. It's best to start with a piece that's over-size. History of the reed organ. You may have to do a good bit of looking to find something that works. The ribs fold on the length-wise center-line; the middle ribs are centered with respect to the marks for the ends of the movable board, and the side ribs are placed using the old ones as a guide. Begin by taking out the screws, removing the straps, and parting the lower action from the foundation. When you have accumulated a dozen or so reeds there, and the last of them is thoroughly heated, push the lot off the glass back onto a clean tray. Set them aside. Work slowly and carefully! Place a small weight to hold each rib in place, and mark the position of each with a dark pencil. Work the joints down carefully, and apply the strip of wood over the joint (if there was one). Since there is little resemblance between toilet bowls and reeds, my inclination is to steer clear of TBC for cleaning reeds. The 2019 International Reed Organ Society's gathering was held at our musseum last year. The bearing parts can also be soaked in metal-etch, rinsed well, dried and polished on a small wire-wheel (moto-tool size works very well). Working quickly, apply a coat of glue to the cloth *and* to the glue-face of the prepared ribs, and drop them into place. Sand both sides, and top and bottom with 200-grit garnet paper in a rubber holder. The *width* of the reservoir cover is determined by the maximum opening of it, *plus* the material glued to the divider, *plus* any material that is folded over on to the face of the reservoir (Mason & Hamlin, usually), *PLUS* some "trim" - at least half an inch. The Pipe Organ Database is the definitive compilation of information about pipe organs in North America. Reeds that are especially tight benefit from a light tap *inwards* on the exposed butt: use a light hammer and small scrap of hardwood. Just pressing the fabric down lightly into the pattern shows where it should (and should not) go. On occasion I have used chamois *backed* by a thin cow-hide. Since the keys are not all exactly the same width, it is best to use a piece of felt a trifle too wide, line it up with one side, glue in place, and trim off the excess. This is a good introduction for those that may be considering rebuilding a reed organ. Take great. If there are metal frames, these should be cleaned up with a wire brush; if they were painted, re-paint them to match the original as closely as you can. What is the abbreviation for Reed Organ Society? Hot glue requires a glue pot: a fully automatic one is expensive. Interaction of reed and resonator in reed organ pipes without and with the resonator has been investigated. Cut strips of leather which are slightly too long and slightly too wide. Write numbers or letters on the various parts and the corresponding position on the cloth, then set the ribs aside briefly. However, there may be a group of facings that are the same length for a dozen notes or so, then a group of shorter facings, and so on. An iron, not too hot, will usually soften the glue enough to let you remove one exhauster cover as a single piece. THUMPER FELT: A piece of thick felt (occasionally, punchings on each front pin) which limits the downward travel of each key, and which absorbs the sound of the keys "bottoming out". The ROS means Reed Organ Society. Quick Search Power Search Other Continents. Before doing this, however, inspect the soundboard closely for cracks. Instruments with a 6 octave keyboard and nearly identical stop list appear in the Reed Organ Society database: number 350 dated 1904, 675, 1624 dated 1906, 2381 dated 1896 with very similar fretwork, 3496 dated 1899 with similar fretwork below keys, This is a heavy item and will require proper safe loading into a suitable vehicle. The second deadly sin - and this is one of which even organ builders were too often guilty - is not preparing the holes correctly for a screw to properly do its job. Reed organs were, for the most part, assembled using screws. Farrand & Votey Organ Company was a nineteenth-century manufacturer of pianos, reed and pipe organs, and player pianos located in Detroit, Michigan.It evolved from William R. Farrand and Edwin S. Votey, hence the name of Farrand & Votey.The company is the development of the old Detroit Reed Organ Company that was originally bought out in 1881. The Aunt Maude Series updated and illustrated on CD. However, pyralin is EXTREMELY flammable (chemically, it is the same as nitrocellulose film base, which caused many a nasty theater fire until safety film was developed).

reed organ society

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